Our HOW TO section includes tips and stitching techniques for all manner of crafts, the guide will be updated as we go.  If you would like us to email you any guides, please let us know.

Click to zoom to your selection...  

• NEEDLEPOINT & CROSS STITCH ...
  
  • Securing Threads
  • Cross Stitch
  • Tent Stitch
  • Basketweave Stitch
  • Finishing your work
    
  
  
• EMBROIDERY ...
  
• CROCHET ...

A little note on measurements...

Crafty things are still imperial in so many ways, yards and inches are the norm on a lot of references, canvases and knitting stitches are still measured in how many there are per inch... we work mainly on 10hpi canvas (10 holes per inch).  Hanks of yarn are 31inches when cut from the loops - and most sofware works out how many yards you need.  So we will endeavour to convert where we can but know that 2.54cm = 1 inch for conversion purposes.

NEEDLEPOINT and CROSS STITCH

Where oh Where to begin?

We usually start by stitching the smallest / more detailed areas of color first. A lot of folk tend to stitch the canvas color by color - changing colour to alleviate boredom..  this helps keep it all interesting.  But beginners may like to start on a larger section of colour, to try out their skills without worrying too much about the pattern.

When you have patches of the same color that are close to each other, you can carry the thread across to the adjacent area without cutting.  It really depends upon how fussy you want to be, and how neat you want the back of the canvas to look. If the color areas are farther than about 2/3 cm, you will need to secure and snip the yarn off.

Larger areas are good to practise your technique - use basketweave on these areas for stability if it is not a cross stitch kit (which most of ours are).

Cross stitch does not distort the fabric so there is no need to use a frame, making it one of the easiest stitches to work with.

Our canvases are worked using counted cross stitch, and the charts are marked with a centre point which you can find by folding the canvas in half and then half again.  Alternatively we leave approx 7cm around the edge which you can measure and start counting from the edge.

Securing Threads..

Regardless of the needlepoint stitch you are using, start off by securing the thread onto the canvas. Now, a needlepoint purist would tell you never to tie a knot, luckily we believe life is too short - knot away we say!  Cut off a length of thread (Our strands are already cut from hanks to approx 31 inchs/71cm)

If working in the CREWEL WOOL - 1 strand doubled over is used, leaving a loop at the end of your long end.

• Thread your needle (we put a threader in each of our kits)
• Pass the needle up from the back to create the first stitch
• As you pass it to the back to form the stitch secure the wool by passing the needle through the loop at the back of your work.
• Pull taught but not tight!
• This is a super easy way of securing which we love.

If working in the TAPESTRY WOOL - a single strand is used.

• Thread your needle (we put a threader in each of our kits)
• Make a knot at the end of the yarn.
• Starting on the "good" side of the canvas, a few holes along from where you will place your first stitch, take the needle down to the "wrong" side. The knot will be visible on the "good" side of the canvas. When you start stitching you will work toward this knot and your stitches will have covered the thread behind and held it in place so it doesn't pull out. When you reach the knot you can snip it off.

When you need to change color, or move to a different area of the canvas, or you have used up the yarn and need to rethread the needle, you will need to snip off the thread you have been using. However, you can't just leave it dangling or the stitches will loosen. When you have stitched the last stitch, with the needle on the "wrong" side of the canvas, slide it through the back of 3-4 nearby stitches. This will take the thread behind these stitches and it will be secure. Cut the thread close to where the needle emerges so the canvas looks neat.

Stitch Instructions When reading all the stitch guide graphics that follow, you bring the needle up to the good side of the canvas on the odd numbers, and push the needle down to the wrong side of the canvas on all the even numbers.

Cross Stitch

Our kits are mainly worked using Counted Cross Stitch from the colour chart provided.

Half cross stitch is when you work a whole row with the half stitch as shown.  Odd numbers are when the yarn is coming up from the wrong side and the even numbers is the stitch being passed back from the good to the wrong side.

...and then pass back over the stitches in the opposite direction to form a cross stitch.  The defining factor of this stitch is that it has a vertical stitch on the "wrong" side of the canvas. Start at the top left of your canvas or block of color. Work from left to right in a row across the canvas and then return.

Alternatively you can work the cross as you go along (this is what I like to do as you know where you are!)  Up at 1, down at 2, up at 3 etc...

Tent Stitch

This stitch covers the canvas well but also tends to distort it. Once again though it's great for working smaller areas and we use it a lot on finer needlepoint kits (14hpi) for detail areas. On the "wrong" side of the canvas you will see a diagonal stitch.

Basketweave Stitch

The 'Holy Grail' of basic needlepoint stitches. It allows good coverage of the canvas with the least distortion.  This is the main stitch on our finer detail 14hpi kits.

You should use basketweave whenever there is a larg(ish) area to be stitched. It is named for the basketweave pattern it forms on the "wrong" side of the canvas. Work this stitch diagonally, starting at the top right hand corner of the area.

Finishing your work

My Grandma Dora had her walls filled with needlepoint which was framed, and my mum likes to do this too.  I on the other hand prefer to make up cushions or on an ambitious day upholster a chair seat or ottoman - even mini foot stools look fantastic with this technique.

Our cushions tend to be in generous sizes from the standard 40x40 cm to the long 30x50 cm or large super comfy 50x50 cm.  All of these can have standard fillers - which we can supply if needed.  We always opt for a super stuffed look and our cushion fillers are made by a fabulous British maker known for their workmanship.

The back of your cushion can be made several ways  with zippers, buttons, ties etc  Or you can opt to simply slip stitch closed!

Backing fabrics should be of a similar weight to work the best, and have a tight weave - you could opt for a wool or heavy cotton canvas - the choice is yours. 

Simple slip stitched cushion:

Trim your work leaving a border af approx 2.5 / 1inch border. 

Cut the backing fabric to the same size.

Place the 2 'right' sides together and sew the pieces together on a machine or with a tight hand stitch - with the edge of your tapestry as a guide.  Leaving an opening at the bottom of the cushion edge big enough to turn inside out and place the filler inside.

Trim the corners diagonally so that they do not leave a bulky lump when turned the right way round.  But not too close to the stitched edge.

Turn the right way out pushing into the corners gently.  Push in the pad or polyester filler if prefered.

Tuck the raw edges in and Slipstitch closed with small invisible stitches.

There you have it - your own handcrafted heirloom and piece of crafty chic!

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EMBROIDERY STITCHES

Coming soon...

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CROCHET

Coming soon...

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